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Joined 1 year ago
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Cake day: June 4th, 2023

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  • The software calculated efficiency for the Braumeister is spot on for me if just using it like set it and forget it, so about 65%. I can up that with stopping the pump during mashing, opening the thing and stirring the mash about once every 30 minutes in my 90 min mash. Also by milling the malt a bit finer. But too fine, and I get a stuck mash. With this, I managed around 75, or how much the software sets as standard for pot and cooler method, so I’m happy with that.

    I also start the brew with 23ish liters of strike water, dump 6 kg of malt in there and sparge with 5-6 liters at 80C. Boil 1 hr and end up with 18-19 liters in the fermenter with the rest full of trub in the Braumeister (2-3 liters maybe?) I never measured how much is left and I can sparge with 4 or 6L. I just eyeball it according to how much wort is in when I lift the malt pipe.

    In your case, I’d say maybe the mash did not go very well.

    I wouldn’t be too worried about the body. It could be that your fermentation just stopped a bit higher because all that’s left is longer sugars, unfermentable, but good for the body. One way to find out…


  • What is your brewing setup? I’ve used your grain quantities in BeerSmith with a Braumeister 20L setup for the out of the box efficiency (without stirring the malt during mashing or a finer grind or extra boiling) and it gave me a post-boil of 1.042, which seems to fit with your result so I’d guess you had an efficiency issue. How did the mashing go?

    I’ve noticed that when boiling for the standard 1 hour, I get about a 10% increase in gravity (for the digits after the 1 - that is, pre-boil of 1.064 leads to post-boil of 1.070 ish), so in your case 1.037 to 1.041 would check out for me.

    For my brewing setup, 30 minutes at 63C doesn’t really cut it, I’ve tried it and noticed 60 minutes or even 90 minutes work way better. But then I mostly use kveik and the indication seems to be for longer mash times (something about it being unable to digest sugars made of 3+ units).

    I’m not sure I get your last point. If your FG is higher than expected, you should reasonably have more sugars left over from fermentation, so more residual sweetness.

    Regardless, I’d suggest RDWHAHB, and see what you get out of this. Do share your final results, I am curious what it’s like.

    Out of lazyness, I just let all my beers sit in the fermenter for 2 weeks and that seems to work out just fine. Some finish bubbling after 2 days, some after 12.

    Edited to add: just noticed from your yeast link, you also use an all-in-one system, does it suffer from the same low efficiency issues as the Braumeister, I wonder?










  • I use a Braumeister, and grind size is a bit of an issue. Too coarse - bad efficiency. Too fine - dough. My recommendation would be to check what Brezilla recommends. Braumeister has a recommended size on their website. And use that as a starting point. Go a bit finer if efficiency is still bad. Try the size on the Braumeister website if Brewzilla does not have any. I grind at my local homebrew shop and their mill says ‘7’ ish.

    Also, even if AIO, during the mash I usually stop 2-3 times and open up the malt pipe and give it a good stir. Improves efficiency for my setup.

    Also, true, for smaller grains like rye or specialty black grains, do grind them separately, and way finer to make sure they don’t slip by.


  • Not sure if the information is still current, as it was a while ago, but I was taught that the yeast for wine originally came from the grapes themselves, it settles on the fruit from the air as it ripens. They named it Saccharomyces ellipsoideus or something of the sort, related to the beer yeast S. cerevisae, but not the same. Nowadays winemakers use lab cultured yeasts for consistency though.

    Point being, if you can get hold of some grapes that you know weren’t exposed to nasty stuff (i.e. not grown near a highway), try not washing them and just smashing them, skin and all, and see what ferments. Put an airlock on to prevent acetic acid formation and try going from there. If using water to dilute or wash stuff, make sure it’s chlorine free. One campden tablet to 20L should do it.