Damn you could just have a lot of beers and liquor as well, sounds gimmicky

Isn’t a beer bar just a bar?

I’ll tell you my biggest destructive moment was getting a single phase 440v/50hz motor from Europe for some equipment (I’m in the states) and it had the worst nameplate I’ve ever seen on the motor of whether to remove the capacitor across the two phases or not. Turns out the cap got left in only on 220v. We put 480v/60hz on it, which is within 10% so it’s fine but the cap should have gotten removed. Stupidly I only hooked up to like a 30A twist-lock connection off the wall for testing before it got installed rather than the 6A it needed in the panel. The cap burned itself out, started a small fire, caught all this soundproofing insulation crap on fire. Couldn’t get another motor for months. Big whoops

It’s not “running a cable” it’s upending my life for months on end and ruining my floor, walls, etc. And again, the stove is using a barely negligible amount of energy at all. A stove is 3-5% of your monthly gas usage compared a furnace + hot water tank + dryer, which guess what I’m keeping those too.

I’m saying this as an electrician that runs wires all the damn time and could do this work for myself but I guess you can’t read or something so: I. Have. No. Access.

$8k if you pay someone to do it. <$300 if you do it yourself. I’ve done it twice, once for bathroom exhaust and once for the stove

Okay bud I’ll get right on ripping apart my entire kitchen down to the studs and completely removing my floor and rebuilding the whole damn room to save $10 in energy costs per month

Clearly you don’t know wtf you’re even sayin

I don’t have air conditioning so that’s a sweet dig I guess

Also I’m not about to go ripping my house apart and running new 220v wires to save a buck. And I’m saying this as an electrician haha. There’s literally no access to underneath my kitchen where the gas lines for the stove and dryer run to the basement. They just put the (old growth) floor joists right overtop the dirt like you would a shed and cut a hole in the foundation to run utilities into that part of the house.

I don’t live in California where they’re tryin to outlaw natural gas. I live in Pennsylvania which is one of the biggest suppliers of gas so it’s not exactly going anywhere. To try what they’re doin out west would be like mass destruction to people’s homes in Pittsburgh. It’s a very old city, lots of lath and plaster walls, etc. Not something that’s easy to just plug in an induction stove like some of these comments are making it out to be

Why would how much heat dissipates matter at all? The pan still gets as hot as you want it and the food cooks the same

If you vent a gas stove, no big deal.

The money point is moot my dude. I have all gas appliances: dryer, hot water tank, furnace, stove. No air conditioning in the home. My gas bill in the summer is literally $30, which is $15 more than the minimum service delivery bill. You’re not losing any measurable amount of money by using a gas stove since it’s likely on for what, 15-30 minutes a day tops? Electric or induction is using power as well

Now in the winter it regularly gets to be around 200-300 or so for the furnace, but I did a lot of air sealing and insulation at the tail end of winter, should knock it down a bit. Very old home, from the 1870s. Either way, gas is still cheaper than electric. It’s why I love it.

What? This is nonsense. I’ve lived in a city for 12 years, I love it and would never want to live anywhere else. I work in a factory that is closer to suburbs and more rural areas, it’s where almost all my coworkers are from. They’re way more in tune with “conforming” to the typical get married, start a family, keep up with the Joneses lifestyle. They mostly like to talk about lawn upkeep and golfing lol.

The city has a vibrant art and music scene, so many places to eat from plenty of different cultures and cuisines, the ability to walk or bike or take public transit and do whatever you want to do. To be able to go out at night to bars, clubs, underground DIY music venues, socialize, etc.

A lot of my coworkers’ daily lives center around their kids’ schedule, maybe going out to a chain restaurant once in a while, living in very car-centric and pretty boring (to me) places. The countryside has its perks, and I love being out in nature, but the city has so much more to offer. Different strokes for different folks

This all makes sense for websites but even the default android keyboard, SMS texts, general UI for things like email, etc all use the capital I.

We bought our house in 2020. First day I had keys I had to dig up the sewer line. Drunk and exhausted I ordered a hoagie for delivery, called the pizza place. Guy was like ok where do you live? I was like here’s my address. He was like no just describe the directions on how to get there we only deliver to our little neighborhood in the city so what main roads are you close by?

Pretty cool that still happens I guess, felt like I was transported back to the 90s

I played the gamecube version and it was perfect controls-wise. It’s basically a port, not a remake or anything. It also includes the master quest on a separate disc, which is a harder version of the game.

I used to wire up inverters on industrial solar farms out west. We all got laid off when trump got elected and he nixed an Obama era federal funding of renewables. Glad to hear it’s comin back

My roommate is rebuilding his Volkswagen 2012 Golf R’s engine right now. We were watching on YouTube, you can get a whole engine on Alibaba for like $500. Seems like it’s 50/50 of it working and being like a brand new car, or just a huge clusterfuck that won’t run and turns into a shitshow disaster

I’m an electrician and would do it myself if I wasn’t covered by trees with a house facing north in one of the least sunny parts of the country lol

3/8 is such a cursed measurement lol. Like this 3/8 wrench fits a #10 hex head screw. No it doesn’t fit 3/8 hardware. You want 9/16 for that. Oh 9/16 hardware? You can use either 7/8 or 13/16. Or just grab a metric wrench that’s close enough like a 7/16 is the same thing as an 11mm or 3/4 is the same as 19mm. Not gonna lie at certain point it’s just memorizing shit and pattern recognition

We bend raw copper and aluminum busbars at work for manufacturing industrial electrical systems. All standard hardware. Plus whatever else goes into it like insulated supports, polyballs, mounting hardware of components on panels, etc. So I’m probably one of the rare exceptions that use SAE more than metric, especially how pretty much every car (even American made ones) use metric now. Other than maybe changing a bolt for an old lawnmower or something, yeah I get why it’s not really used much anymore.

SAE tools for SAE hardware. I agree, saying something like “gimme a 7/16 wrench for this 1/4-20 by 3/8 bolt” is probably like speaking a foreign language to someone accustomed to metric. But you get used to it if you see it every day.

Now metric measurements of wire are fucking ridiculous in my eye. AWG (American wire gauge) all day. The metric equivalent measures the diameter of the wire and calls it like 1 mm2 for 18 awg, 1.5 for 16, 2.5 for 14, 4 for 12 awg etc. AWG keeps it nice and easy, every other even number starting at like 32 down to 2.

It does get a little fucky from there tho lol. Like then it goes 1 and 0 AWG, then 1/0, 2/0, 3/0, 4/0 (pronounced like 1 awwt), then 250, 500, 750, 1000 MCM. But I’ve also heard those sizes of 250-1000 called KCMIL instead for… reasons…

It’s like most of our measurements. It’s what “feels” right if that makes any sense. Fahrenheit is more accurate to what changes are noticeable to the human body, a foot or a yard just paints a way better picture than half a meter etc. I’m sure most of it is based off like farmers or something rather than scientific measurements.

I use a really ancient analog hi-pot tester at work, which is basically a high potential insulation stress test. The hi-pot formula under UL is operating voltage x 2.25 + 2000v. It will put up to 40kV through a circuit at milli or micro amps to see if there is any leakage in the conductors through open air. This goes for bare conductors like busbars as well as insulated ones like wire, measuring their terminations or cracks in the insulation. It tests phase to phase and phase to ground to see if the electricity will jump thru air or over an insulated material, which is where the words strike and creep come from which have their own formulas of what is acceptable and what isn’t for manufacturing and installation. There’s a little more room for creep obviously.

All that is to say, there’s plenty of fancy new digital hi-pot testers. We rented one for a project that was going on a marine grade system. They’ll run a test at whatever your parameters you type in and save it all to a flash drive. We worked for 8 hours to set up all of our testing jumpers and ran a test for 1 second on the control wiring for it to say PASS then we put it all back together.

The fancy one saves the leakage current values to the drive. Our analog one will only display it on an analog dial and we write it down. This is ok for testing AC (and this is where things start to get a little over my head), something about the RMS nature of AC causes more leakage current during the test, so generally we have a leakage value of let’s say 1 milliamp. DC will generally only make microamps of current when we run the test. Try recording any kind of value when you look at the dial and it looks like it doesn’t even move past zero haha.

We basically told the customer that we have a pass/fail tester and can’t accurately produce any type of value for leakage on DC unless we rented or purchased another machine. But for 9 out of 10 times, it’s fine that’s all anyone cares about anyway. I’ve fucked up and left a plate somewhere it shouldn’t have been and believe me you’ll know when this thing fails lol. It sent 11kV thru a tiny circuit board, whoops